Відео

excellent...the journey continues! ^_^

quite an interesting system!

just find one that fits tightly! ^__^

smaller is nice for tanto...you can easily make do with one 3/8" or you could make a pair, one slightly smaller and one slightly larger than that...

haha, yes! the real secret is plenty of charcoal and no more air than necessary...this makes a carbon-rich atmosphere around the piece which prevents oxygen from corrupting the joint...

nothing too specific, tezuchi just means "hand hammer"... islandblacksmith.ca/2013/04/why-you-need-a-japanese-swordsmiths-hammer/

great! more detail here: islandblacksmith.ca/process/making-habaki/ machigane info: islandblacksmith.ca/2014/10/classical-tanto-construction-habaki-%E3%81%AE-machigane/

great! more detail here: islandblacksmith.ca/process/making-habaki/ machigane info: islandblacksmith.ca/2014/10/classical-tanto-construction-habaki-%E3%81%AE-machigane/

hounoki is japanese bigleaf magnolia...north american tulip magnolia is similar to it...

thanks for the answer , that wood is a mip to find overhere in belgium @@islandblacksmith

yes, i have to order from japan as well, but i have the option of the north american variety now as well...if you can get some of the real thing from somewhere like namikawa heibei and then find something similar locally in hardness, density, grain, low acidity, low sap, low moisture, and stability, it may work for what you are doing...

they are carefully poured from a ladle onto a cold steel plate, it cools them fast enough to keep them from flowing too flat...it is still quite hot but liquid aluminum is cooler than most molten metals...

how do you know? ^__^

знаю . изучал .@@islandblacksmith

studied what? the piece of steel in my forge? what is the carbon content? or what is the final hardness of the edge? ^__^

количество углерода в аналогичных деталях.@@islandblacksmith

do you know what a harrow tooth is? this is not a bolt...the way to tell if something is high carbon is to heat it red and quench in water, then test if it snaps or bends...snap = >.5, bend = <.4, bend and then snap = ~.4

this is a centuries-old method used to repair not only broken stones, but to fill large gaps where harder mineral deposits must be dug out to prevent scratching...this stone has been polishing traditional swords for several years since the repair.

yep! ^__^

to quote the description and pinned comment: " A refined detail that is normally hidden from view, the ireko saya protects the blade from the hardwood." more info linked on the website...

yep!

they are! ...just from the local hardware store in japan, i don't think this brand is online anywhere...

much appreciated! the spirit continues, though the footage is delayed ^__^ (and there are a couple of new items on the website/rumble islandblacksmith.ca )

great!

whatever you can find!

you can find very detailed specs, photos, and information about each build on the website: islandblacksmith.ca/featured-work/

yes, the whole mounting is made from one block so the grain connects the whole way on both sides...

tanto is my area of focus so i haven't done anything larger yet, also not something i can put on my list at this point...but yes, slim, a bit shorter, and fairly straight in a cane is what you are looking for...there are a few antique versions that come up for sale from time to time even...

islandblacksmith.ca/tag/sokui/

pure water, depending on the steel and the weather preheating is safer...

tokusa, horsetail, aka scouring rush...check the description for links to the articles with more info...

@@islandblacksmith Thank you very much. :)

...and you can also use the fine plane shavings from magnolia (or probably most woods) to burnish the surface...

what is loose? the goal is to have them slide in freely until the last 1-2mm, then the habaki engages tightly, and the scabbard should be carved very closely to the blade shape to prevent rattling...

no refunds, make it count...time is very short!

which one are you wondering about? they all have extensive finishing techniques from yakite (fire texturing) to controlled rust patina to heat blueing to (tea) tannin stabilizing...and protected by baked urushi, ibota wax or tung oil...all the traditional ways ^__^

much appreciated! on vancouver island, but there are hours and hours of video and plenty of photos and info on the website for study as well!

should be able to order online from watanabe syoten or namikawa heibei...interesting stuff!

i usually use fine (pure) silver or sterling silver, but silver solder is available for jewelry work, it melts at a slightly lower temp so the copper is in less danger...

no, i just had to unexpectedly get off the property i was working at...still working on a new location...thanks!

thank you! detail is so important in the japanese craft tradition!

first hardened, then tempered...more info than you ever wanted to know: islandblacksmith.ca/process/yaki-ire-clay-tempering/ (but not enough to do it right, nothing beats experience!)